Patch It Up!

Ive decided to look into patchwork and use elements to create my capsule collection. It can be done in several ways. The traditional way of squares or random sized pieces zig-zag stitched together straight stitched or feather stitched.

Section of a patchwork dress from the 1960s.

A later on cardigan from 1982

Alternative loud twist 'crazy' patchwork outfit

Catwalk Collection

Alexander Burke in a modern sheer patchwork dress

Pam Hogg

I stumbled upon this rock chick singer/fashion designer whilst looking into 90s patchwork. Looking more into her i discovered she has supported Debbie Harry (Blondie) in 1993 and designed for many famous people such as Kylie Minogue for her 'Two Hearts' video. Her catsuits were also very popular during 2008. Her website is under new construction at the minute however theres information on her on vogue.co.uk and style.com. I love her quirky use of colours and fabrics.

Making my Trouser Toile

As you can see the chiffon leg lies well the material gives it the right shape and volume I was hoping for. Especially adding a cuff on the bottom.

After making one leg out of the chiffon I needed to create the other but didnt have enough chiffon left so had to use callico. It is only to see what the crotch and waist lies like. The tape above shows where the band will be.

I made up an elasticated band and attached that. Now I can see what my pants will look like. After this I realised I needed to lengthen the top again but crop the bottom so I added 12cm to the top and took 5cm off the bottom.

The Beginging of Pattern Cutting

My first paper pattern is to be my trousers. I used the basic pattern block and took 5cm off the top and then another 6cm for the band. I then widened each leg by 40cm by cutting and spreading 2 20cm sections.

I then made the band pattern piece 100cm long and 12cm deep then added seam allowances.

To see if it will work well in a sheer floaty fabric I decided to make one leg out of some spare chiffon.

Initial Capsule Collection Changes

After choosing my capsule collection and drawing it up in flats and illustrations for CAD. I had a change of plan after developing the materials I was going to use for the garments. I chose two definite outfits to make and a third if I get time. After debating over fabrics and colours I went back to my design development and chose a different playsuit to put into the collection as it has both dress and playsuit elements. I swapped over the hooded top for the boobtube to go with my trousers. At this moment I’m still debating on colours and fabrics but as it stands I’m going to make the pants from blue patchwork fabric and have the hooded top either matching with a blue satin lining or a red coloured jersey.

AD 205 Final Major Development

For this I’ve decided to focus on Beachwear but NOT swimwear. I started off by doing pages of thumbnails focusing on dresses, shorts, kaftans, playsuits, boobtubes’ and trousers. From all of this I decided upon an initial capsule collection pages of dresses, playsuits and trouser outfits. the trousers start off to be harem but after much debate I am going to change them to more of a fitted palazzo style with volume and bottom cuff.
Below are my development sheets showing colour which I done in watercolour.

Initial Primary Research for AD205

I first looked at Tim Burton annimation movies

then focused on The Nightmare Before Christmas.

Mainly the characters Jack and Sally before focusing on Sally the ragdoll

I particulally liked her patchwork dress and how random and raw it is

I will take this aspect to the next level.

Heres a few videos from youtube on this research

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cg9AuAbael0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tFy3gPzuGQc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WI9lTStkcSk